Saturday, November 21, 2015

Handshake Day

A week or so ago it was Handshake Day across the Foreign Service.

Handshake Day is the day when officers start learning what their onward assignments will be. Not everyone learns that day (and Diplomatic Security is a notable exception). But enough people learn where they're going next that, if you're affiliated with the FS, your Facebook feed will be filled with pictures of flags and bridges and maps for a solid 48 hours as your friends start rolling out their announcements.

So far, I have friends who are moving to Guatemala and Gaborone. Tanzania and Venezuela. Morocco. India. Yugoslavia. Austria. Ukraine. Japan and Germany. Turkey.

So many places to go in this wide world.

For the first time ever in the history of us, we got our handshake on Handshake Day, too. Usually we're a few - or more! - months behind. But not this time. This time, we already know that in summer of 2016, we'll be in...

(drumroll, please)

The United States of America.


Kind of anticlimactic, no?

But alas, it's time for us to come home - or so DS tells us. They've offered B a great job, one he's really happy about. And so, in the coming months, we'll start the slow-but-stressful transition stateside.

There is a lot to do in order to move "home."

Sell a car; buy a car.

Enroll 4 kids in 3 separate schools. Un-enroll them from their current school.

Update medical clearances.

Purge household goods so you don't have too much stuff at the other end.

Figure out how to ship a cat and a dog.

Negotiate leave dates with the losing post (Moscow), and arrival dates with the gaining post in the U.S.

Get rid of old 220 volt electronics and figure out how to replace them with 110v equivalents.

Cell phone plan? What's a cell phone plan? Last time we lived in the U.S., we used our landline exclusively - except when it was tied up by the dial-up internet service.

Change addresses for every bank account, magazine, friend - but to what? We own a house, so we'll have to work on getting the tenants out if we want to move in.

Find temporary housing in the mean time.

Moving back to the U.S. is an expensive proposition. In addition to fixing up a house and buying two cars, we need to buy all new electronics (television, computers, iPads, phones). We need to furnish an entire house - I think we still have toddler beds in storage, but those maybe won't work so well with the kids we have. We need to - arghh, I don't even want to think about it.

Instead it might be best to concentrate on Wegmans and Chipotle and signs in English and parking lots and left turn lanes and Target and pho and real chocolate milk.

I will miss this overseas adventure we've been on. But I guess it's time.

Friday, November 20, 2015

Honey. Fat. Markets. Anything but current events.

I have nothing to add to the conversation about current events. I am terribly sad and afraid for our small world - that is all you need to know. If you know me in real life, you know what's going through my mind. But this isn't the place to put the details. Not now, anyway.

I have another article in TIME magazine today, about keeping your kids safe overseas. Go take a look, please - it's good advice even for those of you living stateside.

We had some decent snow earlier in the week, but today it's rainy and dreary in Moscow.

A few of us decided to go to Dorogomilovo Rynok to get our vegetable shopping done for the weekend. We had a new lady in tow, so we took her to all of our favorite vendors so they'd know her: the cheese & yogurt lady, the honey lady, the nut guy, the spice guy, the vegetable folks, etc.

The honey lady is my favorite, because she gives us samples of every kind of honey - whether or not we want them. She knows my favorite kind by now, but still she has me sample each new kind. One of these days, I'm going to learn the words for the different plants and flowers so I know where all of these honeys come from.

Yeah, we sampled them all. That dark one tastes like the cows walked through the meadow just ahead of the bees - blech. That white one in the middle? SO good.

I'm almost out of bee pollen (I add it to my yogurt and granola). I thought about buying some, but my eyes were drawn to the bottles on either side of it:

Blurry picture. But on the right side of the frame, there? That's a bottle of bear fat. Yes. You read that right. Bear fat.

And that right there is badger fat. Yum.
Back in Kazakhstan, they used to sell jars of dog fat in the markets in wintertime. A friend insisted it was the best cure for colds - just add a spoonful to hot water, drink, and you'll be better in no time.

(I never tried it. Because no. Just no.)

This is the first time I've seen bear fat around these parts. I took a picture, because all these years later, I've always wished I took pictures of the dog fat. I did not, however, ask her what it's for. Next time, I promise, I'll find out and report back to you.

My refrigerator is stocked with honey and checil cheese and mandarin oranges, so I'm ready to brave whatever Moscow throws my way this weekend.

Be safe out there, wherever you are. And if, like me, you're stressing about the state of the world, go out and do something kind for a neighbor. Any neighbor will do. Just - find the thing that is within your circle of influence, and make that thing better. Make somebody smile. Give someone a hug. Buy some flowers. Register to run the Virtual 5K for refugees.

Enjoy your weekend.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

One more article

Another article in Time magazine this week. Please head over there and take a look at How to Parent Like a Diplomat.

Thursday, November 5, 2015


There was a death in the Embassy community this week.

It happens sometimes, sadly, and when it does, a lot of people swing into action. The Marines are sometimes first responders, as is the medical team, of course, and the security team. The DCM often has the unenviable task of telling surviving family members, and then somebody else has to help family members figure out what’s next. Someone from GSO will have to clean up whatever mess is left behind. Someone from the office of the victim gets involved as well. Someone else has to tell the Ambassador, who in turn has to let the entire community know what happened before the rumors start flying. Washington gets involved too, as everyone works to get the body repatriated and to support any family members left behind.

In short, a death affects the entire Embassy community on some level.

This all happened right around the time that the school buses arrived on compound that afternoon. The buses pulled up; the kids hopped off and saw the waiting ambulance, flanked by Marines. They saw the entrances to the building blocked off by Marines who wouldn’t let anybody past, lest they wander into the tragedy as it was unfolding.

My boys came home first and asked me what was happening, but of course I didn’t yet know. Someone is probably hurt, I told them. We’ll hear about it eventually if it’s important. They accepted that and wandered upstairs to start their homework.

Then K burst through the front door, shouting “Where’s Daddy?”

I told her he was at work.  She started sobbing as she told me about the ambulance, with the Marines standing guard. She was convinced that something had happened to her dad.

I told her he was fine. That if something happened to her daddy, somebody from the Embassy would knock on the door and tell us.

But how do you know?, she asked. Have you talked to him? How do you know it isn’t him?

When he finally did call, to tell me he’d be home late (these things take a lot of time to resolve), she answered the phone and burst into tears again. She simply would not be convinced that her dad was safe, even after hearing his voice.

You know, I think it’s Baghdad that twisted her up this way. That, and the fact that, at 9 years old, she’s already been through several duck and cover events and intruder events that weren’t drills. 

She sees the Marines drilling periodically, moving through the Embassy in full gear as they practice various scenarios. This never bothers her in the slightest.  There are certain times during the week when they test the alarm system; by now she knows when these tests are coming, and she hardly notices them.

But the real emergencies reduce her to a quivering mass of tears.

Her first real duck and cover happened during a kids’ birthday party one warm weekend at the Embassy pool in Amman, when she was around 5 years old. She was swimming with friends when the alarm when off. Her dad, her birthday friend’s dad and all of the Marines and RSO staff around the pool took off for the main Embassy building to suit up for whatever was coming. Everyone else swarmed out of the pool and into a safe haven area, where the kids all shivered in the cold, towels left behind in the rush to get to safety. Kids were crying, adults were shushing, everyone was praying for the all-clear to sound.

She didn’t seem overly upset after it was over. But the next time the alarm went off, instead of following instructions, she collapsed into a heap on the playground and refused to move.

Then, of course, her dad went off to Baghdad and she turned into a real worrier. We all did, I guess, but K worst of all. Will he die? she wanted to know, and I told her no. He won’t die. And the fact that he is there means lots of other mommies and daddies won’t die, either.

He’s her hero. As she sees it, his job is to save lives. But she is old enough to understand that a person whose job is to save the lives of others is often called upon to put his own life at risk. And she is old enough to know that when she sees the Marines with their game faces on, it means her own daddy must be out there somewhere, too.

He still wasn’t home when she went to bed.  When she woke up the next morning, I told her what happened, and then a whole new set of questions erupted. Who was he?, she wanted to know. Do we know him? Does he have kids? What will happen to his kids?

On the school bus yesterday, all of the kids were talking about it, apparently, trying to sort out what it means that a person can be there one minute and gone the next. If it can happen to that person, they reason, what’s keeping my small family safe?

We talked about it more at bedtime. By now, she’d had time to process it, and her questions became bigger, more existential. She moved from will this happen to me? on to where does a person go when their body dies?

And then she started planning my funeral.

This was a bit uncomfortable for me, to say the least. She told me where she would bury me, and how, and what she would think of while she was doing it.  I know this is a normal process, this thinking about the worst things that could happen and then preparing yourself for them, mentally. Heck, mothers do it all the time. We see our kids climbing a tree, and in our mind’s eye we envision them falling to the ground. We picture the screaming, the pain, the ambulance, the beeping machines and serious-faced doctors.  We prepare ourselves mentally to rush them to the hospital, all before they’ve even reached that first high branch of the tree. Or perhaps that’s just me?

But still, it was a strange sensation to watch my daughter planning out my funeral, and to see that this activity was oddly calming for her. I think it gave her a sense of control. It gave her the idea that she could control life’s events rather than wait to be knocked over by fate.

Yesterday was a quiet day on compound, as news of what had happened spread. It was a holiday here in Russia, so the Embassy was closed, but the children were all in school. All was quiet. The hallways were empty, automatic lights shut off because so few people were walking through them.  In the gym, where he died, there was an empty space where once there had been workout equipment, all hauled away in the aftermath.

Bart and the other people who’d been at the scene seemed tired and sad. I know my husband has dealt with death many times in his career, with bloodshed and catastrophic injuries, with suicides and gunshot wounds and other things that I never want to have to think about. But that kind of thing doesn’t get easier on a person, does it?  We spent the holiday walking around foggy, grey-skied Moscow, talking quietly about the future and about our kids.

As we were heading home, we ran into the priest, who was wearing not his vestments but a heavy wool coat and a ski cap, looking just like an ordinary man. Bart stopped him, told him the man’s name, asked him to say a prayer. The priest solemnly repeated the man’s name and promised to send his prayers skyward. We continued on our way after that, both of us ready to be home, to wait for our children to join us.

Life is a fragile, terrible, beautiful thing. Brutiful, as Glennon always says.  Hold on tight while you have it. And say a prayer for this man, who died on Tuesday while serving his country here in Russia.

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Halloween on the NEC

Trick or Treat is over. The girls have changed out of their costumes. Candy wrappers are strewn everywhere. I may have eaten a few Snickers bars myself, plus or minus a Butterfinger or two. (What? Every kid knows about the mom tax.) A few moments ago, A surveyed her huge stash of candy, sighed with satisfaction, and said "I just can't believe it's almost Christmas."

Happy Halloween everyone. 

(And remember: if you're in the States, and you're turning your clocks back this weekend - we don't do that here. So we'll be an hour off of the usual difference.)

Friday, October 30, 2015

The GlobeHoppers go to the Kremlin

It was a short visit, but we managed to cram most of the major sites into just a few days.

We spent one whole day touring the Kremlin, the Armory, Red Square and GUM. I kind of lost count of how many churches we saw, but it was a lot.

On the grounds of the Kremlin. Church in the background.

One church of many.

That's the Moscow River on the other side of the wall.


Another church.
Unfortunately, there are no pictures allowed inside the Armory itself. It was amazing. Every single coronation outfit of the czars is on display in there. I loved the old dresses and shoes. Loved. And they have a ton of old carriages belonging to the czars.  And suits of armor. And Faberge eggs. And, and, and.... Really. If you're ever in Moscow, make the time to go there.
The GlobeHoppers themselves. Such fun guests they were!

My beautiful family.

These two were missing some other old pals from Jordan. I think a reunion might be in order this summer.





Thursday, October 29, 2015

Evening at the Ice Palace

The GlobeHoppers came for a visit! Well, 50% of them did, anyway. It was fun to have visitors to show around town. And these were the best kind of visitors - smart, funny, curious, easygoing, adventurous....

Mr. G reallyreallyreally wanted to go to a hockey game. I guess you could say he's sort of a fan. He found the game online - all I had to do was find the stadium and purchase the tickets before they arrived.

I explained to the ticket lady that my friends are crazy hockey people and that this was Number One on their List of Things to Do In Moscow, before Red Square and everything. So I needed good tickets. She found me some tickets. "Are you sure?" I asked. "Will they be happy with these tickets?" (Because they were only around $25-30 apiece, and I would've paid more.) She laughed, replying "your friends will be very happy with these tickets."

They seemed happy indeed. We were just 3 rows back from the ice, and our seats were directly above the home team dugout, or whatever you call it in hockey. (I'm not the fan, they are.) We were close enough to see the specks of blood on the ice and the floor of the arena when one of the players got clubbed with a stick. We were close enough that I was a bit worried about getting bashed in the skull by an errant puck - the safety net was conspicuously absent from our section.

The home team - Dynamo - got crushed by the visiting Yaroslavl Lokomotiv team, but their fans never gave up hope. So fun to see the fans screaming at a nearly sold out match, even if I still don't exactly understand hockey.

Crowd outside of the Ice Palace.

Not on zoom.

Friends since middle school - in foreign service years that's an awful lot.

Please. Write your own stuff.